Cycling in Italy - Day 19: Amalfi Coast - Salerno to Praiano

01 / 08 / 2013

Our bikes, just before we started from San Mango

August had just arrived and after 3 adventurous days in Salerno it was time to move on. I was about to cycle through the Amalfi Coast, one of the most beautiful corners of the Mediterranean. But I was not going to do this alone. For the first time in this journey, I will travel with company. My friend Antonio was going to a village called Praiano to meet with his friends and start his summer holidays. 

He has a blog about bicycles, so if you are a cyclist in the Campania region, he is your man.

Leaving Salerno

The Amalfi Coast was the sweetest cycling experience I had during this trip. The landscape blows your mind. Mountain on your right, cliff on your left and endless sea as far as your eyes can see. Beauty.

Torre Normanna, outside of Maiori

Maiori village

The villages that you meet on your way are of course extremely touristic. But this has nothing to do with the scenery. It was something that I can't describe in a blog. Some things you just have to be there to understand what's going on.

Minori village

The night was slowly arriving. I was cycling even more slowly because of the uphills and downhills, but most of all because I wanted to capture every image in my head, for ever. After some hours we were in the village of Amalfi.

Tunnel of Amalfi

Amalfi is actually hidden from the sea. There is a frontline of buildings and the main village is behind them. We visited the main square, just to fill our bottles with fresh water from the fountain.

Cathedral of Saint Andrea

We arrived in Praiano at midnight. Dirty, sweaty and tired as hell. But this day and the next in the Amalfi Coast were the best cycling routes of the trip. After a few beers with Antonios friends, I slept immediately because the next day I had to continue, this time on my own.

Amalfi Coast had more secrets for me.

Refreshing fountain in Amalfi.

End of Day 19.

Cycling in Italy - Day 15: Second day in Taranto

28 / 07 / 2013

Fabiana, Felice, Azzura, me and Anna

The hottest Sunday of the summer had arrived and we visited one of the finest beaches of Taranto, Marina di Lizzano. For sure, that was refreshing. 

One of Taranto's many ports

After some hours in the sea, we headed back to Taranto, to meet Angelo. He is a volunteer tower keeper in a small island that connects the old city with the new. If you pass by Taranto, you got to meet him. He knows the entire history of his city and the region.

Sandra, me, Felice and Angelo

Taras, the son of Poseidon and of the nymph Satyrion, riding a dolphin

It was about time to ask my hosts, what is this dirty cloud over Taranto. As it turns out, a big iron company named ILVA has a few major factories, almost INSIDE Taranto city. The health problems are numerous. When I asked "why don't you do something" the answer was the one I expected: half of the population complains, but the other half is working there. Same story with a city in Greece, Ptolemaida, where the country's electricity is beeing produced - and also with a mountain named Kakavos, Greece again, where a big company wants to extract gold, leaving ruins with the excuse of "creating jobs". 

Job-creating polution over Taranto

One of the local bands, Fido Guido, wrote a song in Tarantino dialect talking about ILVA and the "fume scure" (dark smoke).

Night came around and after a big dose of reallity, we went around Taranto for the last time. One of the navy's old ships was resting for a few days in front of Castello Aragonese.

We didn't stay up late, 'cause next day was monday - and also because the next day I was leaving to go to Salerno, in Campania region. So this was my last night in Puglia.

End of Day 15.

Cycling in Italy - Day 14: First day in Taranto

27 / 07 / 2013

First things first: Taranto's Raffo beer with my host Felice 

Taranto used to be the capital of Magnia Graecia (Great Greece). It was colonised by Spartans back in 706 BC. Now it was my turn. After another day of cycling under the hardcore sun of southern Italy, I met my hosts, Felice and Anna.

(I don't know why, but  I continue to cycle between 14:00 to 16:00 EVERY time on this journey. As if it's not hard enough to ride an already heavy bike, with heavy electric motor that doesn't work, heavy bags and a heavy biker)

Luky me, this night was the annual celebration of "La Notte Della Taranta", a big outdoor music festival.

People by the seaside of Taranto 

A festival without candies is not a festival

...and fake jewellery.

Me and my friends arrived just on time when Goran Bregovic was on stage, performing a mixture of Italian-Balkan-Tarantella-Pizzica-everythingalltogether style, that the locals seemed to enjoy.

People of all ages were having fun on the streets of Taranto, but suddenly around 12:00 the music went off.
I couldn't understand why because the entire city was dancing by the beach. So, the "people are sleeping" argument was invalid. Plus, the next day was Sunday.
But, as my friends told me, the mayor of Taranto is one of the most useless individuals in Italy.
Now I understand why.

With Christian and Anna

After the premature ending of the party, we headed to another place for one last Negroni. Or two.
The next day we were heading for the beach. This weekend was the hottest of all summer.

End of Day 14.

Cycling in Italy - Day 16: Puglia to Campania

29 / 07 / 2013

Zippers starting to quit their jobs

It was about time to visit another region of Italy. After 2 weeks in Puglia, Campania was my next stop. I took my bicycle to a regional train, from Taranto to Pontecagnano, a town outside of Salerno.

No pole dancing in the station

Empty train station of Taranto

After some hours, I was in Pontecagnano. My goal was to reach a small village called "San Mango Piemonte" and meet my host, Antonio.

*Piemonte means "at the feet of the mountain". So, it was my first time on this trip that I had to go up.

Entering Salerno

On the way to San Mango

Every time that I asked someone about the way to San Mango, tha answer was the same: it's right after the uphill. I got this responce about 5 times.

Going up...

Same story: heavy bike + luggage + electric motor/battery/charger that don't work + heavy Alex.

At some points I had to take the bike in my hands and walk with it. The heat was laughing on me.

...and up...

San Mango Piemonte

Finally at some point I reached San Mango. Antonio had showed up to lead me for the last kilometers. After a little rest we cycled down to Salerno.

Seaside of Salerno

This time I was lucky. Antonio was a bicycle specialist. And because he lives in San Mango, he has an electric bike that he build himself, in order to go up and down to Salerno. So, after some magic tricks he did on my bike, I could finally enjoy some electric assistance!

Antonio doing his magic

After a day of adventure, all I needed was a good meal. I was lucky again. As it turns out, pita gyros (a greek fast food delicacy) is quite famous in Salerno.

Ok, when you try something like pita gyros in an other country, you don't expect to feel like home. But this time it did. The taste was exactly as they do pita gyros in Athens. I had no problem with that.

When we got home, I slept for 14 hours straight. Or maybe more.
I started to like Campania.

End of Day 16.

Cycling in Italy - Day 13: Lecce to Manduria

26 / 07 / 2013

It was about time to pack my bags and hit the road to Manduria.

This ride was the most difficult up to now, because I had the wind blowing against me, all the way.

The first village that I had to reach, was Campi Salentina.

There I fell into this:

A few kilometers later, I was in Guagnano.

The olive trees were starting to fade out and wine grape fields showed up.

When I reached San Pancrazzio Salentino I was half way there.
The city welcomed me with this wonderfull hair saloon:

New Generation is WILD, MOTHERFUCKER.

The wind was kicking me in the face, the zippers on my bags were badly misplaced, but I managed to get to Manduria on time (I got my own time).

Castle of Manduria

There was not room for fun. I had to rest. After 1 beer, one kebap and 2 fast Negroni coctails, I slept like a 100kg angel.

Tomorrow, I head off to Taranto.

End of Day 13.

Cycling in Italy - Day 12: Around Lecce

25 / 07 / 2013

No posters

Today is my last day in Lecce, so I went for a bike ride by myself. After visiting the Duomo and the historical center (of course, I got no photos to post) I met this couple and we had some fun talking and taking photos:

Giuseppe and Silvia

The city of Lecce is a candidate city for being the Cultural Capital of Europe. I remember when my city, Thessaloniki was the Cultural Capital. We got to see the U2. Serious culture, no bullshit. I hope Lecce does it better.

Tomorrow I take my bike and cycle for about 50km to go to Manduria. You may have heard the famous wine "Primitivo di Manduria". I will taste it for myself. 

So, this is it for Lecce. There is one last thing I have to show you before leaving this city:

Animal shaped burgers.

End of Day 12.

Cycling in Italy - Day 11: Mik and Annalisa

24 / 07 / 2013 

Mik and Annalisa

Party time (again) in Salento, this time in the capital, Lecce. My host Mik, an unconventional scientist and his friend Annalisa, a smiley doctor from Bologna, prepared the best sangria in Europe.

Annalisa

Mik, finishing his masterpiece

As they were busy preparing the night's spirit, I took charge of cooking. Something very light that fits the profile of a bicycle traveler. Fried potatoes, greek tzatziki (with extra garlic) and greek salad. 

Diet.

Beer, cigarette and a frying pan.
Health.

After, we headed to the party which was on a beach in Spiagia Bella, next to Torre Chianca.

The moon was calling for some romance. And I answered. After some cups of sangria, I slept on the beach. 

And... I was not alone. I had the honour to sleep with about 100 mosquitos. I felt proud that out of all those people, they choose me for their dinner. I felt usefull. 

Maybe it was a full moon, I don't remember...

When I woke up, I saw Mik gazing the sunrise. He informed me about all the things that happened during the party. So, it's like I was there. I'm such a party animal sometimes, I can't stop myself. Grrrr.

Deep thoughts

End od Day 11.